The world of skincare is ever-evolving, with new trends and innovations constantly emerging, promising transformative results and flawless complexions. Among these burgeoning trends, at-home derma rolling has made its way to the forefront as an affordable alternative to professional microneedling which we know and love. However, is this skincare trend truly worth the hype? In this article, we delve deep into the science behind derma rolling to separate fact from fiction. By exploring the benefits, risks, and opinions of industry experts, we aim to provide you with an informed perspective on whether dermarolling deserves a place in your skincare routine or whether you should save yourself time and money and avoid it altogether. So, let’s unravel the truth and uncover the potential wonders or woes of this captivating skincare phenomenon.
What is Dermarolling?
Dermarolling and microneedling are terms often used interchangeably. While in essence, they both serve as a form of collagen induction therapy, there are some key differences. While dermarolling refers to the use of a specific device called a derma roller – a small handheld device with a roller covered in small needles to create controlled micro-injuries on the skin’s surface, microneedling is an umbrella term for this method. This means microneedling encompasses other types of devices like dermapens as well as the treatments usually offered at a dermatologist or aesthetic clinic.
By creating controlled trauma through micro-injuries, microneedling stimulates the skin’s natural healing process, leading to increased collagen and elastin production, improved texture, and overall rejuvenation. Microneedling is hence often used to address concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, enlarged pores, and uneven skin tone.
Given its many benefits, there is no doubt that we’d all be curious to hop on the microneedling train.
While studies have shown that microneedling is effective when performed in a professional setting by trained and experienced practitioners, can you skip a trip to the aestheticians and save some money by doing it yourself?
So, is Dermarolling Worth the Hype?
Despite the prevalence of affordable at-home dermarolling kits, it’s important to exercise caution when considering at-home treatments.
Dermarolling at home is generally not recommended due to a few factors: user error as well as the characteristics of dermarollers, including their shape and quality.
Risk of User Error
Dermarolling introduces a significant risk of user errors, both during the procedure and in maintaining proper needle hygiene. The manual nature of dermarolling makes it easy for users to improperly angle the needles or penetrate too deeply, causing significant trauma to the skin. Many attempting this process at home often prolong the dermarolling session, inadvertently causing more harm than good. The precision and control required for creating micro-injuries can easily be compromised when the process is extended excessively, increasing the likelihood of scarring and permanent skin damage.
The Characteristics of Derma Rollers
The shape and design of dermarollers play a part as well. The horizontal movement of derma rollers results in lateral punctures that leave the skin at an odd angle, increasing the risk of scarring and bruising. Additionally, because of its wide surface area, the derma roller increases the risk of skin tearing and trauma with each pass. Furthermore, due to their design, derma rollers pose a challenge for microneedling around delicate regions around the eyes, nose and lips. The derma roller also doesn’t afford a lot of control for the user, since they’re limited by the roller’s overall size and the rolling action of the tool.
It is important to note that dermarolling, unlike professional microneedling, falls short of providing comparable results. Professional microneedling devices are more motorised, ensuring consistent and controlled penetration throughout the entire process.
Risk of Inferior Quality
You also run the risk of low-quality dermarollers when you purchase an at-home dermarolling kit. The prevalence of low-quality beauty products and tools, especially online, is undeniable. Purchasing a low-quality derma roller can have significant consequences. Low-quality derma rollers can create irregular wounds rather than the intended control micro-injuries, which dramatically increases the risk of severe scarring. Therefore, while dermarolling may seem like an affordable option, it may actually end up costing you more. At the end of the day, it is better just to leave microneedling to the professionals, even if it costs more upfront. Your skin will thank you in the long run.
However, if you are still keen to try microneedling at home, derma pens may be a better option to go with. They tend to have more precision, decreasing the chance of scarring and dermapens come with settings that can be configured easily to allow for more customisation. This allows you to customise the length of the needles depending on factors such as pain tolerance, expected results and other dynamic factors. The smooth action of the mechanisms also means that there’s less chance of scarring.
The design of the derma pen is different as well. Since it’s held vertically, the user can adjust the angle and the area to be treated. This allows for shallow treatments of wide areas and intense treatments of targeted areas for better results.
When considering microneedling at home, here are some important points to keep in mind:
1. Needle Length: The length of needles used in dermarolling varies depending on your skin’s concern. Deeper needle lengths are typically used by professionals and may not be safe or effective for at-home use. Stick to 0.25 to 1.0mm for home use.
2. Hygiene and Sterilisation: Proper sterilisation of the derma roller or pen before and after use is crucial to prevent infection.
3. Preparation and Aftercare: The skin should be clean and properly prepped before dermarolling. Post-treatment care, including the use of soothing and hydrating products, is essential to aid the healing process.
So, Can Dermarolling at Home Replace Professional Microneedling?
Ultimately, if you’re considering microneedling, it’s generally safer and more effective to seek professional treatments, especially for more advanced skincare concerns. Licensed dermatologists or experienced skincare practitioners can tailor the procedure to your needs, ensure proper sterilisation and safety measures, and provide post-treatment care guidance. They also have advanced microneedling machines that offer microneedling with radiofrequency for a more dramatic result. For those with milder concerns who choose to microneedle at home, it’s crucial to educate yourself about the procedure, follow proper hygiene practices, and start with a cautious approach. Before making a decision, it’s advisable to consult a skincare professional who can assess your skin and guide you toward the most appropriate option based on your individual circumstances.
