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Everyone is talking about bond builders. Also known as bond repair or bond building, you’ve definitely heard about it. Whether it is from your salon or TikTok, these ultra-reparative products were originally exclusively available when you were getting your hair done at the salon with the help of a licensed professional -– until now.
Recent years have seen a surge in the accessibility of bond builders, leading to a significant decrease in their price points. While this increased accessibility has made it possible for more people to benefit from these products, it has also led to a flood of options in the market, some of which may not live up to their claims.
So, how do we navigate the world of bond builders? Should we even care about investing in them? What do they actually do? In this article, we’ll explore what they are, how they work, and how you can make informed decisions about bond builders for you and your specific hair type.
Firstly, What Are Bond Builders?
Bond builders are hair treatments designed to repair the bonds that are broken during chemical treatments such as colouring, bleaching, and perming.
Three main types of chemical bonds naturally exist in our hair. Disulfide, also known as an S-S bond, is the strongest bond in our hair and is responsible for stabilising the protein chains within the strands. This contributes to our overall hair health and elasticity. The next bond, hydrogen bonds are responsible for protecting your hair from external elements such as heat and water and helps to hold the texture and shape of your hair. Lastly, salt bonds or ionic bonds, the weakest of the three also contribute to hair elasticity and strength. However, they are the weakest because they break when the hair is too alkaline or acidic, causing shedding or breakage.
Bond builders are therefore designed to strengthen all three of these bonds in our hair to ensure that it remains healthy, strong and elastic.
How Do Bond Builders Work?
Bond builders contain specific ingredients that are able to penetrate the hair shaft and link or fuse damaged bonds back together. The most commonly used ingredient is bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, also known as the active ingredient in Olaplex. This ingredient is able to form a bond with the broken bonds in your hair, essentially acting as a “bridge” and reconnecting them back together. Other ingredients commonly found in bond builders include amino acids, keratin, and proteins which all work together to repair and strengthen the hair. Bond builders are also often made with specific pH levels in mind to strengthen salt bonds and further strengthen hair.
The Good: More Accessible Price Points
As the beauty industry continually evolves, and the demand for bond builders increases, more brands have entered the market. This competition has driven prices down, making bond builders more affordable for a broader audience. Now, individuals who previously couldn’t justify the expense can enjoy the benefits of these products.
Moreover, the widespread availability of bond builders means that people have more options to choose from, allowing them to find products that suit their specific hair needs and budget. This democratisation of beauty products is a positive step towards inclusivity in hair care.
The Bad: Questionable Products
However, this influx of bond builders has not come without its drawbacks. As the term “bond builder” is not legally regulated, many companies have begun labelling their products as such without rigorous testing or evidence to back up their claims. Products that are classified as general hair conditioners or deep hair conditioners can now be marketed as “bond builders” simply because they might electrostatically bond to hair,
This lack of regulation means that some products on the market may not actually “build” bonds in the way consumers expect. Instead, they may simply act as regular conditioners, offering surface-level smoothing and shine without the deep repair that genuine bond builders provide. For consumers, this can lead to disappointment and confusion, as well as wasted money on ineffective products.
So, Do You Need Bond Builders?
The answer to this question depends on the state of your hair and your hair goals. If you regularly undergo chemical treatments such as bleaching or colouring, then bond builders can be beneficial in maintaining the health and integrity of your hair. Additionally, if you have damaged or weak hair, investing in a bond builder can help strengthen and repair it.
However, if you have relatively healthy hair or do not undergo chemical treatments, a bond builder may not be necessary for you. You can achieve similar results with regular deep conditioning treatments and using products that are formulated to protect against heat and environmental damage.
Navigating the Market: Tips for Consumers
If you’ve decided that investing in bond builders is for you, it is important for you to be informed and aware of what you are purchasing. Here are some tips on how to navigate the market and make smart choices when it comes to bond builders:
1. Research the Brand: Look for brands with a history of transparency and scientific backing for their products. Brands that invest in research and development are more likely to offer genuine bond builders. Examples include Olaplex, K18 and Aveda.
2. Read Reviews: Customer reviews can provide insights into the effectiveness of a product. Look for reviews that mention long-term results and hair health improvements.
3. Check Ingredients: Authentic bond builders often contain specific ingredients known for repairing hair bonds, such as bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (found in Olaplex). Familiarise yourself with these key ingredients and check product labels.
4. Consult Professionals: Hair stylists and professionals often have first-hand experience with a range of products. Their recommendations can be valuable in finding an effective bond builder.
Conclusion
The rise in accessibility of bond builders is a double-edged sword. On one hand, it has made these transformative products available to a wider audience, promoting healthier hair for all. On the other hand, the lack of regulation has led to a market flooded with products that may not deliver on their promises. By staying informed and cautious, consumers can navigate this crowded market and find bond builders that truly work.
